Albania has now become part of the imagination of travellers and tourists alike as one of the new perfect destinations: it is close but exotic, it has a beautiful sea and wild mountains, some of its centres have an artistic heritage of great interest and in terms of entertainment, one is not left high and dry. Holidays in Albania, in short, are a must. But what to do the first time, to be on the safe side? Here are our tips for your first trip to Albania.
Albania's sea is now famous, but you will always find a secluded corner ©Landscape Nature Photo/Shutterstock
Things to see in Tirana
There are many places to visit in Albania, but if you are travelling by plane, Tirana will be your arrival point and a tour of Albania can only start from here. It is difficult to fall in love at first sight, we warn you: Tirana's beauty is slow to emerge, it is hidden, and more than monuments and sights, it is made up of atmospheres, people, situations. Before you escape, however, you must at least visit its museums, absolutely the National Historical Museum, rich in antiquities and icons, and the National Art Gallery, a repository of socialist realism in painting and sculpture. Don't forget the Et'hem Bey mosque, one of the most beautiful in the country, and take a tour of the New Bazaar (Pazar i Ri), amidst mountains of loose tobacco, piles of olives, meat, fish and vegetables of all kinds, heralding the delicacies of the palate that you might taste in the evening at Oda, a cosy traditional restaurant not far from the market. After dinner, pop into Blloku, the tidy old communist nomenklatura quarter that has now become the centre of literally unbridled nightlife. Here, excess and ostentation reign supreme, starting with the volume of music, which is sometimes louder outside than inside the premises. If you are looking for a more intimate atmosphere, go to Bunker 1944 or the Hemingway bar. An out-of-town excursion is to Kruje, Albania's first capital, whose fortress (one of the most characteristic landscapes in Albania), perched on a rocky outcrop, contains important vestiges of the past, and whose bazaar, intact since the 17th century, balances the modernity of Tirana's market. Now, however, it is time to explore Albania's most beautiful landscapes and places, among which, of course, the sea cannot be missing.
Rozafa Castle in Shkodra, Albania ©saiko3p/Shutterstock
Albania, quality tourism between Shkodra and the North
Many will probably arrive in Albania by land and the impact will be with the city of Shkodra. Elegant but not prissy, 'European' and cultured, Shkodra preserves a beautiful museum of photography and its main streets are lined with trendy bars and traditional restaurants. Within walking distance is the largest lake in the Balkans (and one of the most beautiful), where you can eat fish while admiring the Albanian Alps rising rapidly to the northeast. Visit the great castle of Rozafa, the Mosque of the Leads and the Middle Bridge, probably the most beautiful Ottoman bridge in the Balkans, with 13 arches; go down to Lezhe to taste some of the best cuisine in the country at Mrizi i Zanave, a top-quality agritourism farm that is carrying out a great work of revitalising traditional cuisine; but if you really want to be amazed, reach Koman and embark on an adventure in the mountains. A ferry boat and many improvised boats will navigate you through a large fjord that penetrates into the massive mountains of the north-east, between thickly forested walls from which the occasional local with his own little boat emerges. Narrow passages, bright openings, rock islands follow one another until you reach Valbonë with its magnificent mountain paths. Not feeling up to it? From Shkodra head with your own car or a guide (you can easily find one at campsites and hotels) towards Theth, through alpine forests from which slender minarets sprout like mushrooms.
The bridge in Mesi, Albania ©RilindH/Getty Images
Beach holidays in Albania: Durres and the Adriatic coast
If you have chosen the ship to Albania (there are ferries from Trieste, Ancona, Bari and Brindisi), then you will land in Durres. From the sea it doesn't look like much, but this ancient city, in which there are some interesting Roman and Byzantine remains, has an undeniable charm, is populated by friendly people and is full of excellent fish restaurants such as the Aragosta Restaurant. The layers of past eras will take you past ancient mosaics and 1920s buildings, Byzantine baths and Greek amphitheatres, mosques and concrete apartment blocks... all in an entertaining mess. And then there is the sea of Durres, Plazhi i Currilave is close by, almost in the city centre, Tirana is a stone's throw away, to the north the magnificent nature of Cape Rodoni awaits and to the south, near Fier, are the ancient archaeological sites of Apollonia and Byllis. The country's Adriatic coastline is low and sandy and, as further north, embroidered with marshy areas and lagoons where hundreds of birds nest: perfect for summer holidays in Albania with the whole family, including children. The largest lagoon in the Mediterranean is within the Divjakë-Karavasta National Park, a place both wild and gentle at the same time. If birdwatching interests you to a certain extent, enjoy the local fish specialities at the Divjaka Fish Restaurant. Heading further south, you pass into the jurisdiction of the Ionian Sea and the 'call of the forest' for lovers of diving and sunbathing becomes even stronger, where the seaside resorts in Albania become even more incredible.
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Dhermi beach, Albania ©Landscape Nature Photo/Shutterstock
Vlora, beaches and a dip in the Ionian Riviera
If you are wondering where to go to the beach in Albania, head south: after Vlora , Albania's beaches are more exciting and you will find many beautiful and unexpected seaside resorts. The Karaburun Peninsula, with its sea caves, opens the dance of the Albanian Riviera. Then there is Dhermi, via Himare. Finally, those who holiday in Albania in Saranda make an excellent choice, although they must count on finding more tourists during the high season. Here, the coast is a treasure trove of dazzling beauty. Castles watch over headlands surrounded by emerald waters, small Orthodox churches dominate the craggy coastline almost like lighthouses, kilometre-long beaches alternate with tiny bays. Tourists, especially from the interior and neighbouring countries, but also from the rest of the world, are aware of this great beauty, it is obvious, in fact in the middle months of summer the Riviera is the place to be if you are looking for movement, people and fun. In the other summer months (it is already hot in May), or more simply at off-peak times, the beaches are decidedly less frequented, and the more difficult it is to reach them, the greater the satisfaction of solitude. If you can't manage to conquer a hidden, solitary spot (but don't give up too soon, the coast is indented and a deserted cove can always be found), or walking is not for you, even for a few hundred metres, you can get away and plunge into the blue with a boat trip to Grammata Bay. Here, on waters that redefine the concept of blue, in an enchanting place, you can read ancient inscriptions on the rock walls, dating back to the time of Julius Caesar. History and archaeology also have a place here. The large site of Butrint, enclosed in a lagoon lapped by the tides, where ruins from the Hellenistic to the Venetian period stand out against fuchsia-pink sunsets, is worth a two-hour visit. If that doesn't interest you and you still want to take a break from the sea, then visit the Blue Eye, an almost perfectly circular, deep-coloured spring bubbling out of the ground.
The panorama of Gjirokaster ©lokvi/Shutterstock
Travelling in southern Albania
It is in the south and interior that Albania plays its most interesting cards. In Berat, for example, the city of stacked windows. The town is truly unique: an immense cascade of white houses pierced by an infinity of small windows that plunge headlong into the narrow valley of the Osum river. Some of them have become nice hotels and guesthouses, others restaurants, and still others are inhabited by those who have not decided to move to the new part of town, which, although it cannot compete in charm with the old town, is pleasant and lively. As you climb to the top of the town, you discover a large, well-preserved fortified citadel(Kala), in which dozens of families still live and where you can find the marvellous Church of the Dormition of the Virgin, of the Orthodox rite. It pops up as if by magic as you wander through the little alleys of the citadel and houses a splendid iconostasis and the Onufri Museum, dedicated to the great icon painter. The ethnographic museum is also worth a visit, and don't miss the mosques and the tekke bektashi (a Sufi confraternity), exciting gems of Ottoman architecture.
Berat's cousin is Gjirokaster, also unique in the urban landscape not only in Albania, but worldwide. Its perfectly self-contained fortress-houses are stunning museum residences, with intact furnishings, intricate and refined frescoes and breathtaking views over the valley. Some of them, restored, welcome tourists and travellers, who come to rest after visits to the castle, the beautiful bazaar and the surrounding villages, such as Tepelene. Gjirokaster is a dimension out of time, especially after nightfall, when day-trippers leave, other tourists remain but the town takes on a more intimate dimension and reveals its unique beauty in another light. The beauty of the interior does not end here and this is where your adventure begins. Discover Korçe with its bazaar and the Museum of Icons, Lin and Pogradec placidly overlooking Lake Ohrid, Permet enclosed by extraordinary mountains, wild rivers, Ottoman baths (Benje) and gastronomic specialities...enjoy your trip.