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Jamaica: the two sides of Negril

Jamaica: the two sides of Negril

When it comes to resorts with amazing beaches, Jamaica's Negril is undoubtedly a top recommendation. However, it might seem surprising that I'm not suggesting staying directly on the beach. After all, isn't that what the Caribbean is all about? Negril boasts a stunning five-mile beach with unforgettable sunsets, soft sand gently sloping into a calm, jade-colored sea protected by a reef.

But here's the fascinating twist: Negril has another side to it known as "the cliffs" of the West End. These five miles of coastline feature meandering limestone formations that were once part of a reef but now tower above the sea. The cliffs are a fascinating display of chaos, with inlets, outcrops, and caves. They even serve as ideal sunning platforms. The intricate patterns and markings on the rock resemble Palaeolithic cake mix.

Along the cliff edge, you'll find a cluster of charming boutique hotels hidden behind walls from the road. These independent establishments are surrounded by lush tropical greenery and offer a tranquil retreat. Surprisingly, despite Negril being a bustling resort town, these cliff-side hotels are perfect for those seeking the serenity of contemplating the sea and horizon. It's counter-intuitive, yet it works.

Take the Rockhouse hotel, for example, where each villa stands on its own small rock outcrop. From my terrace, just 15 feet above, I could see the lazy, miniature swells creating a mesmerizing pattern on the water surface. It was hard to resist jumping into the inviting and incredibly clear water. The sea floor was right there, rocks scattered on a sandy bottom, veiled in shades of blue.

A couple of miles beyond the reef, marked by a line of breakers, lies the deep sea, a rich royal blue. After spending hours simply observing, I concluded that the horizon appears pleasingly straight.

Negril has an intriguing history. It was once a remote place, only accessible by a proper road in 1959. The town's past is marked by a touch of raffishness. Infamous pirates like Jack Rackham, Anne Bonny, and Mary Read were captured here, engaging in mischief and smuggling. However, times have changed, and Negril has become a more established destination with amenities like a golf course and a diverse range of accommodations. On the West End and a significant stretch of the beach, you'll find small, independent hotels, while the top end of the beach is dominated by large all-inclusive resorts that cater to modern tourism.

If you choose not to stay directly on the beach, you should definitely visit it during your time in Negril. It's a fun experience. Along much of its length, you'll find bars, restaurants, hotels, and occasional villas lined up, creating a vibrant waterfront atmosphere. There are plenty of places to stop and spend the day.

I decided to step into Country Country, a delightful hotel that offers a modern take on the traditional Caribbean gingerbread architecture. The cottages blend into golden palm trees with their muted yellows and greens, a refreshing departure from the usual bright primary colors so often seen in Jamaica. As I emerged onto the beach, I took a moment to survey the scene, looking left and right.

Some claim that the beach is seven miles long. However, it is actually five miles (the additional two miles including Bloody Bay next door). Regardless, it's long enough to keep you occupied if you choose to take a stroll. Just avoid doing this during the scorching afternoon heat. Instead, I opted for an afternoon of leisure, occasionally taking a refreshing dip in the sea and enjoying a cool drink from the bar.

Walking along the beachfront after sunset – as Negril's west-facing beach offers excellent sunset views – I found myself being drawn to the music. An evening concert was just starting at Bourbon Beach, and I joined the crowd sitting on the sand in front of the stage. Keep an eye out for signs posted on the electric poles in Negril as occasionally famous reggae bands perform here for their local fans.

The world of the beach also blends with the cliffs in Negril. One iconic spot is Rick's Café, near the southern end of West End Road. It has been a beloved destination for observing breathtaking sunsets for decades. Visitors from far and wide, including Montego Bay and Ocho Rios, are bussed in to witness the spectacle. At Rick's Café, cliff diving reaches its highest point with divers leaping 60 feet into the water. It's a thrilling sight that even entices some visitors to join in the fun.

Returning to the serene ambiance of the Rockhouse was a short distance away. I settled back onto my terrace, now hearing the sound of the sea slopping against the cliff wall, echoing through the small caves, and hissing as it escaped. It was a different kind of Caribbean soundscape, not the gentle lapping of waves, but enchanting in its own unique way – an unexpected delight.

How to Get There

If you're planning a trip to Negril, Jamaica, the best way to reach this beautiful destination is by flying into Montego Bay. Instead of choosing flights to Kingston, opt for the convenience of Virgin Atlantic's twice-weekly return flights from Gatwick to Montego Bay. You can book your tickets online at virgin-atlantic.com or by calling 0844 209 2770. Prices start at £721 for a round-trip ticket.

Travel Packages

While there aren't many British tour operators offering packages to the small independent hotels in Negril, there are a few options worth exploring. Discover Jamaica, a specialist in Jamaican travel, covers a handful of boutique properties throughout the island. You can reach them at 020 7078 7518 or visit their website at discoverjamaica.co.uk. Another option is Caribtours, which also offers packages to boutique hotels in Negril and can be reached at 020 3131 0170 or caribtours.co.uk.

Insider Tips

If you're looking for the perfect beach experience, two highly recommended beach hotels in Negril are Country Country and Idle Awhile. However, keep in mind that during high season, these hotels may prioritize their own guests for loungers. If that's the case, head to the top of the beach where you'll find other great options like Cosmo's Beach Bar or Boardwalk Village.

The high season in Jamaica occurs between mid-January and mid-April. If you're looking to save some money, consider visiting after April 15 when prices drop by as much as 30 percent.

Many of the hotels situated on the cliffs offer fantastic private dining experiences on one of their charming terraces. Plus, don't miss the opportunity to soak up the sun in their uniquely carved limestone sunning areas.

If you're in the mood for some entertaining Jamaican literature, check out "One People" by Guy Kennaway. This delightful book features hysterical short stories set in a fictional town in western Jamaica, not far from Negril. For more comedy with a Jamaican flair, we recommend "The Lunatic and The Great Yacht Race" by Anthony C Winkler.

Discover the Best Hotels

Welcome to Negril, a picturesque town on the western coast of Jamaica known for its stunning sunsets, pristine beaches, and laid-back atmosphere. As you embark on your journey to this tropical haven, we invite you to explore extraordinary hotels that promise an unforgettable stay: Hotels in Negril on www.negriljamaicahotels.net or Samsara Cliff Hotel.

For those seeking a unique and enchanting experience, Samsara Cliff Hotel is a hidden gem nestled on the cliffs overlooking the Caribbean Sea. This eco-friendly retreat offers a tranquil escape from the bustling world, allowing you to unwind amidst nature's embrace. Relax in charming cottages perched on the cliffs, take a dip in the infinity pool overlooking the ocean, and indulge in delicious Jamaican cuisine at the onsite restaurant. Samsara Cliff Hotel provides an idyllic setting to disconnect from everyday life and immerse yourself in the serene beauty of Negril.

We understand that finding the perfect hotel is crucial for a memorable vacation. Here are four outstanding options in Negril, with prices reflecting the high season:

Catcha Falling Star - £
Situated on a large, open area of cliff-front, Catcha Falling Star offers charming cottages, a pool, sunning platforms, and Ivan's dining room and bar. Connected by paths cut into the limestone, this hideaway provides a laid-back and tranquil atmosphere. To book your stay, call 001 876 957 0390 or visit catchajamaica.com. Rates start from £85 per night.

Country Country - ££
If you prefer a beachfront stay, look no further than Country Country. This independent hotel features modern gingerbread cottages in a variety of serene colors. Take advantage of the new pool, restaurant, and bar, all offering stunning views of the beach. To make a reservation, contact 957 4273 or visit countrynegril.com. Prices start from £123 per night.

Rockhouse - ££
Rockhouse offers a unique experience with its meandering line of light coral stone and thatched octagonal villas along the cliff-front. Brightly colored blocks and vivacious rooms await you, surrounded by lush tropical greenery. Don't miss the chance to dine at their large thatched restaurant or enjoy the pool and spa. To book your stay, call 957 4373 or visit rockhousehotel.com. Villas start from £185 per night.

The Caves - £££
For a secluded and stylish stay, make your way to The Caves. This clifftop resort offers cottages with vibrant colors and gingerbread trim. Enjoy hidden platforms and caves for a unique dining experience, and indulge yourself at their Aveda Spa. All-inclusive pricing is available. Call 622 9009 or visit islandoutpost.com to learn more. Rates start from £400 per night.

Discover the Best Restaurants

When it comes to dining in Negril, the hotels often recommend each other's restaurants. However, if you're seeking a change of scenery, explore these unique dining options:

Ciao Jamaica - ££
Located on a lovely West Indian house right on the West End road, Ciao Jamaica offers a blend of Italian and Caribbean cuisine. Enjoy a simple yet delicious meal with dishes like Rasta pasta and jerk pizza while listening to excellent Latin music. Find them on West End Road or reach them at 957 4395.

Sweet Spice - ££
For an authentic Jamaican dining experience, head to Sweet Spice. Nestled in a curiously Alpine-looking wooden chalet on the road to Savanna la Mar, this restaurant serves delectable dishes such as conch salad, curry goat, oxtail, and stewed beef. Remember, the dress code is "No Shoes, No Shirt, No Service!" Find them on White Hall Road or contact 957 4621.

Italian Café - ££
Situated halfway up the beach road, Italian Café is a local favorite. This open-sided clapboard house and garden serve as the perfect gathering spot for both residents and visitors. You can indulge in delicious pizzas, pasta, and even some Jamaican specialties. Pay them a visit on Norman Manley Boulevard or call 957 4032.

Cosmo's Seafood Restaurant and Bar - ££
Located at the northern end of Negril Beach, Cosmo's Seafood Restaurant and Bar offers stunning sea views from its covered deck. Stop by for some simple yet satisfying food during the day or evening. If you're lucky, you might even have the chance to meet the owner, who humorously refers to himself as the unofficial mayor of the beach. Visit them on Norman Manley Boulevard or call 957 4784.

What to Avoid

When visiting Jamaica, there are a few things you should avoid to ensure a pleasant experience:

  1. Rick's Café can be quite crowded with loud bands and energetic dancers. If you're looking for a more relaxed atmosphere, head to the laid-back LTU Pub, a local favorite. It offers a beautiful sunset view and a refreshing beer.

  2. While enjoying the beaches, you may encounter hustlers trying to sell various items, including coral jewelry and drugs. Remember to politely decline their offers.

  3. Be aware of tiny sandflies known as "no see-ums." They become more active as the sand cools down, and their bites can cause intense itching. Consider avoiding the beach during these times or apply plenty of repellent.

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