Sometimes it just works out perfectly. The planes, the snow, the weather, and most importantly, the kids, all come together to give parents a truly enjoyable ski vacation. Our ski week in March at Mont Tremblant in Canada, a well-known resort in Quebec's Laurentian mountain range, turned out to be a fantastic holiday for my wife, myself, and our two daughters, aged 4 and 7.
I have to admit, I never really considered eastern Canada as a top choice for a skiing destination. I was worried that the freezing Canadian cold would be too much for the kids and my wife, who prefers sunny weather. However, during our visit in March, the children didn't seem to notice that it rarely got above freezing.
One of the reasons Tremblant appealed to us was because our older daughter, Eve, studies in a French immersion program in Montgomery County. She was excited to put her newfound language skills to use. In this regard, Quebec was more economical and convenient than a trip to the French Alps.
I also realized that my girls weren't as interested in seeking out untouched powder as I was. They simply wanted to have fun on skis. As long as they were having a good time, they were just as happy skiing in foggy rain at New Hampshire's Bretton Woods as they were at Steamboat Springs in Colorado.
Our stroke of luck began at the airport, where we caught a nonstop flight from Baltimore-Washington International to Montreal at 9 a.m. The plane was only half full, which is almost unheard of for flights to western ski resorts in March. By 10:30, we were at the car rental counter in the pleasantly quiet Montreal airport.
Just two and a half hours after leaving BWI – barely enough time for a flight halfway to Denver – the kids were changing into their bathing suits at our hotel. The highlight of the hotel was an inviting outdoor swimming pool. Later in the afternoon, we visited the recently opened Biodome, which showcases various natural habitats, from a steamy rainforest with alligators and colorful parrots, to a slice of the Antarctic filled with lively penguins.
But what we were all really excited about was hitting the slopes. The drive along Highway 15 from Montreal to Tremblant lasted about 90 minutes and was dotted with small ski hills that are perfect for families with young children. Mont Saint-Sauveur, Sainte Adele, Mont Sauvage, and Mont Blanc offer quick and affordable alpine getaways for the locals – "Les Quebecois."
Mont Tremblant is the jewel of Canada's eastern slopes. Although it's not larger than its counterparts in New Hampshire and Vermont, Tremblant surprises visitors with a wide range of intermediate and advanced skiing options, with trails longer than its 2,131-foot vertical drop implies.
The resort was established in 1939 by an eccentric American who spared no expense in creating a picturesque mountainside village with an authentic French Canadian ambiance. In its prime, the resort attracted regulars like the Kennedys and Fondas. However, during the '70s, Tremblant lost its place among industry leaders. Today, on the brink of a multimillion-dollar modernization, the resort retains its cozy, intimate feel – a place that time forgot.
The rooms in Mont Tremblant Lodge exude the same elegance envisioned by Ryan, the resort's original visionary. However, those looking for an upscale skiing experience will have to wait for the new condominiums. Rooms in the lodge are on the smaller side, without extravagant marble bathrooms, hot tubs, or Jacuzzis. There isn't even a swimming pool. Our nearby chalet can best be described as pre-L.L. Bean – a large stone fireplace in a rustic room adorned with worn, pine-paneled furniture. It didn't have a kitchen, and the bathroom floor creaked each time we stepped on it.
But you know what? It was perfect! There was nothing my kids could do to that place that hadn't already been done. And we spent so little time inside that we didn't even notice that the TV wasn't working.
Tremblant offers an extensive ski instruction program for both children and adults, running from Monday to Thursday. Each day starts with a morning lesson, followed by lunch and more mountain instruction in the afternoon. On Thursday evenings, each class enjoys dinner together in the main lodge. After dinner, the kids get to watch a ski video featuring themselves as the stars, and then line up for awards and group pictures.
What made Tremblant stand out from other ski resorts we had visited was their fantastic after-ski program for kids. The Tremblant Lodge was ahead of its time and introduced children's programs long before Club Med became popular.
Every day after skiing, there was an exciting rush to the game room. There, a couple of ski instructors supervised various interactive activities for kids to enjoy. My kids always opted to have dinner with their peers at a supervised table, giving me and my partner the opportunity to relax in front of a cozy fire with a cup of Irish coffee. After dinner, the kids would indulge in some serious sledding on the bunny slope, followed by a movie. This action-packed schedule allowed parents to have a rare moment of dining together.
At 9 p.m., we would reluctantly pull our exhausted kids away from this heavenly routine. We would take a quick walk under the stars back to our chalet, where our children could get a good night's rest before another day of skiing.
Ever since she was 18 months old, Eve has been skiing. At first, she would travel downhill on my back, and by the age of 3 1/2, she was confidently riding chairlifts on her own. She constantly reminded me that skiing can be enjoyable anywhere and in almost any conditions.
During our previous ski trips, it had been a challenge to keep Eve engaged in ski school. However, at Tremblant, she discovered two things that kept her coming back day after day and made it difficult for me to convince her to join us for a family ski session. Firstly, it was the friendships she formed with her classmates, who were all enrolled for the entire four-day instruction period. The sense of camaraderie within her class of eight, ranging from 7 to 10 years old, made her experience even more enjoyable. Most of her classmates were English-speaking Canadians, but the instruction was bilingual.
The second reason she loved ski school was her progression on the slopes. After a morning of skiing, the kids would have lunch with their families and then return for an afternoon lesson. Normally, this would have marked the end of Eve's time at ski school for the day. However, the prospect of reuniting with her ski buddies and the excitement of learning to use ski poles made her eager to continue her ski school journey throughout our holiday.
Morgan, our four-year-old, had an even more significant experience at Tremblant as it was her first time skiing. I happily retired my Gerry pack that I had used to ski with both Morgan and Eve since they were infants. It was an anxious moment for me, hoping that Morgan's first ski experience would be a positive one.
Ski programs for young children between the ages of 3 and 5 have become increasingly popular at many ski resorts over the past decade. It's amazing to see these tiny tykes fearlessly cruising down the slopes, a testament to the success of these programs.
While the programs differ in their methods and intensity, the one constant that determines their effectiveness is the quality of instruction. Tremblant's program allows kids to develop their confidence and abilities at a leisurely pace. For parents who have specific expectations for their children's ski abilities—because there are quite a few who do—Tremblant might not meet those expectations. However, for everyone else, Tremblant's instructional approach achieves its most important goal: making skiing enjoyable.
Morgan was one of five beginners in her class, and they were all under the guidance of a patient and enthusiastic bilingual instructor named Sylvia. During their initial session, the kids didn't go near a downhill slope. Instead, they focused on getting familiar with their skis, learning basic walking and turning techniques. They also had plenty of opportunities to play in the snow and enjoy cookies and hot chocolate at the nearby daycare center.
At this early stage of learning to ski, the key goal is to develop the ability to make a consistent wedge formation with their skis, also known as the snowplow technique.
I'm not sure what magic was used, but by Tuesday, Morgan and her classmates were cautiously sliding down the small hill at the bottom of the bunny slope, confidently maintaining a wedge formation.
The next step was taking the T-bar, two children at a time with Sylvia in the middle, up to the top of the gentle beginner's hill. While waiting for their turn, the kids had the option to play at the bottom or visit the daycare center if they were tired or uninterested.
After three days of lessons, Morgan was deemed ready to take the leap to the bubble chairlift. This newly installed chairlift protected against Tremblant's strong winter gusts and transported them to the top of the Nansen trail, a gently sloping trail that meandered from top to bottom.
Morgan had learned her lessons well. She followed Sylvia down the mountain, extending her arms like an airplane and obediently turning when instructed. To gain speed on the flat sections, she would crouch down like a "bee" with her hands on her knees.
The trail felt long, possibly too long. Tremblant lacked a short, easy slope for beginners of all ages. However, Sylvia came to the rescue when Morgan got tired. She offered a bamboo pole, typically used for ski racing gates, and Morgan held onto it as they cruised together side by side. I also tried using the pole when I skied alone with Morgan, and while she enjoyed it, I found it challenging to control our speed.
Although Morgan excelled on skis and even maneuvered through some gates using the snowplow technique, there were still some basic concepts she needed to grasp. Like her sister when she was four, Morgan struggled to understand that riding the chairlift all day was not possible. I patiently explained that every time we took the chairlift up, we had to ski back down.
Geoffrey Aronson is a skilled freelance writer based in Takoma Park.
ADVENTURE AWAITS!
Mont Tremblant is the ultimate winter wonderland with a wide range of activities for all ages. With 57 thrilling trails and a vertical drop of 2,131 feet, you'll find excitement at every turn. The ski resort covers 450 skiable acres and boasts nine lifts to ensure you spend more time on the slopes.
TICKETS FOR EVERYONE
Grab your skis and get ready to hit the slopes! Daily lift ticket prices are affordable and cater to different age groups. For adults, the cost is $39 (Canadian), while seniors can enjoy a discounted price of $25. Children aged 6 to 12 can join in the fun for just $24. Young adults aged 13 to 20 can ski their hearts out for $30. And best of all, children aged 5 and under get to ski for free! For those wanting to learn, a toddler's ski program is available for just $65, which includes four hours of expert instruction.
ADVENTURES IN SKI SCHOOL
Whether you're a beginner or looking to perfect your skills, the ski school at Mont Tremblant has you covered. Classes for both adults and children are conducted in two two-hour sessions daily. You can choose to attend a single session for $30 or take advantage of the discounted rate of $120 for five lessons. The supervised children's ski program is perfect for young adventurers and costs $65 for unlimited fun and learning.
PACKAGES MADE FOR ADVENTURE
Make the most of your trip to Mont Tremblant with exciting packages that cater to different needs. The four-day child's package is perfect for a Monday through Thursday adventure, including ski school, lift tickets, and lunch. It's priced at just $180. Adults can enjoy a four-day lift pass for only $135. If you don't have your own equipment, no worries! Ski rentals are available right at the mountain.
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Getting to Mont Tremblant is a breeze. Located just 80 miles north of Montreal, you can easily reach the resort via Autoroute 15 and Route 117. Fly into Montreal with airlines such as Northwest, USAir, and Delta. USAir offers direct flights and is currently offering a round-trip fare of $259. Once you arrive, take advantage of the shuttle bus service from Dorval airport to the resort, priced at $44 round trip on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. Rental cars are also available at either Dorval or Mirabel airport, with competitive daily rates starting from $48 (Canadian) at Dorval and $40 (Canadian) at Mirabel.
WHERE TO STAY
Known for its picturesque landscapes, charming village, and world-class outdoor activities, Mont Tremblant offers an idyllic retreat for nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers alike. Introduce you to two remarkable accommodations that will enhance your experience: Hotel Tremblant and Les Suites Tremblant.
Hotel Tremblant on mont-tremblanthotel.com is a premier hotel located in the heart of the pedestrian village, offering convenient access to the mountain slopes, shops, restaurants, and entertainment. With its inviting ambiance and impeccable service, Hotel Tremblant ensures a comfortable and memorable stay. Relax in well-appointed rooms featuring modern amenities, enjoy delicious dining options, and unwind in the hotel's spa and wellness facilities. Whether you're hitting the slopes in winter or exploring the breathtaking trails in summer, Hotel Tremblant provides a perfect haven to recharge and indulge in the beauty of Mont Tremblant.
If you prefer the privacy and convenience of a self-contained suite, Les Suites Tremblant is an excellent choice. These spacious and beautifully furnished suites are scattered throughout the resort village, offering a range of options to suit your needs. Whether you're traveling with family, friends, or as a couple, Les Suites Tremblant provides a cozy home away from home. Enjoy the freedom of a fully equipped kitchen, comfortable living spaces, and access to resort amenities, including swimming pools, hot tubs, and fitness centers. With Les Suites Tremblant, you can create your own retreat within the enchanting surroundings of Mont Tremblant.