Known for its colorful cliffside buildings, breathtaking views, and Mediterranean charm, Positano is the perfect destination for an unforgettable vacation.
"Are you crazy?" one of my friends exclaimed when she heard about our family trip to Positano. This famous Italian destination attracts countless tourists who wander its narrow streets, especially during the summer. But with social distancing measures in place, some may question the wisdom of our decision to venture there for four days.
Eager to escape the monotony of the UK and seeking a change of scenery, we boarded the plane (with masks securely in place and hands thoroughly sanitized) and arrived in Italy with hopes of indulging in the renowned dolce vita.
This marked our fourth visit to Positano in the past twenty years. We first experienced this enchanting town as a young couple in the nineties, returned for a friend's 50th birthday celebration in 2013, and came back last year with our three daughters on our way to Puglia. However, even I had some concerns this time around, as the quaint town isn't exactly designed for social distancing.
The journey from Naples airport to Positano was surprisingly swift, thanks to reduced traffic on the winding roads, even in the peak of August. In just a little over an hour, we had arrived.
We decided to stay at Palazzo Murat, a historic gem situated right in the heart of Positano. Nestled in the pedestrian area, the hotel offered easy access to the Piazzetta dei Mulini, the Spiaggia Grande (main beach), and all the other popular spots in town. Legend has it that Gioacchino Murat, the King of Naples and Napoleon's brother-in-law, fell in love with the palazzo as soon as he arrived in Positano in 1808. It served as his refuge from the courtly intrigues and commotion of Naples, where he spent the hottest months of the year with his lovers. Just like the king, we sought an escape from the chaos of the pandemic, making this hotel the perfect choice for us.
The historic Palazzo Murat, nestled in the heart of Positano.
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Upon our arrival, the hotel reception staff diligently conducted temperature checks and verified our passports and identity cards to comply with the government's new regulations. The staff members were elated to welcome us, as their season had begun much later due to Italy's strict lockdown, and business after August was uncertain at best.
This charming hotel features 33 elegant and pristine white rooms and suites, adorned with vibrant vietri majolica (glazed pottery) that harmoniously complements the palazzo's design and architecture. The rooms are not only stunning but also spacious, chic, and devoid of the usual clutter found in most hotels. Most importantly, they are thoroughly cleaned after each stay, ensuring a safe and comfortable environment for every guest.
The hotel boasts ample outdoor space, including a breathtaking terrace where we enjoyed breakfast, leisurely cups of coffee, and pre-dinner drinks. It also offers a private swimming pool surrounded by mandarin trees, set in a picturesque garden. Antonio, the pool attendant, warmly greeted us and provided towels in sealed bags, as part of the hotel's new COVID-19 safety protocols. Finally, we could relax and take a refreshing swim while savoring the stunning sea views. As we lounged by the pool, we couldn't help but daydream about which of the charming houses painted in various shades of pink, white, and yellow we would buy if money were no object.
If you seek a luxurious and sophisticated retreat, Hotel Savoia on hotel-savoia-positano.positano-hotels.net is an excellent choice. Located in the heart of Positano, this boutique hotel offers stunning views of the coastline and a range of upscale amenities. Indulge in the elegant ambiance, relax by the rooftop pool, and savor the exquisite Italian cuisine at Hotel Savoia.
Le Sirenuse hotel is an icon Credit: Stefano Scatà - stefanoscata.com/Stefano Scatà
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Curious to experience the new Positano post-lockdown vibe, we wandered through the narrow streets and were pleasantly surprised by the ample space. Gone were the usual crowded streets of August. Tourists now treated each other with newfound respect, forming a natural one-way flow, and most people wore masks as they moved about.
The hotels, restaurants, and shops in Positano have undoubtedly been affected. The absence of American, Canadian, Australian, and Middle Eastern visitors, who typically make up 80% of the town's tourists, has been deeply felt. Instead, Europeans and British visitors have started to appear. A local restaurateur noted, "Positano has come full circle, returning to its glory days in the '60s and '70s when it first gained fame and visitors started to discover its beauty."
Our first evening in Positano involved a delightful dinner at Osteria Le Tre Sorelle, the oldest restaurant located on the beachfront. Founded in 1953 by the three sisters Giovannina, Adelina, and Nannina, this restaurant has become a Positano institution famous for its delectable seafood, freshly sourced from the sea right in front of the restaurant.
Upon arrival, we underwent a temperature check, had to show our driver's licenses, and provide a contact mobile number. Strict post-lockdown regulations were enforced, with offenders facing a €1000 fine. Luigi, the restaurant owner and Giovannina's nephew, was excited to have the restaurant open again, even though they had to remove half of the tables to ensure social distancing. Menus were accessible through QR codes, but Luigi, in true Italian fashion, asked us about our preferences and suggested a starter of mixed seafood followed by freshly caught red snapper served with potatoes and tomatoes – both dishes were exquisite. The children were delighted with their homemade pizzas and gelato. To complete the meal in authentic Italian style, the restaurant even offered its own Limoncello.
The next day, we were eager to spend time at the beach but were concerned about social distancing on the public beaches. As a solution, we booked a visit to Treville Beach Club, which is part of the former estate of the renowned Italian film director Franco Zefferelli. This beach club is considered one of the most fashionable spots on the Amalfi coast. We took advantage of the free shuttle service from the harbor, where both the boat's driver and all guests wore masks. The moment we arrived at the secluded beach, typically greeted with an Aperol Spritz, the beach attendant logged our information for contact tracing, performed temperature checks, and informed us that they had reduced the number of beach beds to comply with the new regulations. We appreciated the extra space to relax, and the laid-back atmosphere remained.
After a refreshing swim in the crystal blue Tyrrhenian Sea, we enjoyed a delicious lunch at the beach club's outdoor restaurant. The menu featured the freshest seafood such as tempura prawns, tubetonni with mussels, potatoes, and zucchini flowers, as well as delightful pizzas and a variety of mouthwatering desserts. In the late afternoon, the restaurant transformed into a beach bar, playing remixes of American folk music from the '60s to the '90s. When we were ready to leave, all we had to do was call the masked waiter for our complimentary boat ride back home. It truly was a blissful experience, even with masks on!
We also had the pleasure of dining at Palazzo Murat's Next 2 pop-up restaurant in its charming garden. The Mediterranean gourmet menu featured dishes such as stuffed zucchini flowers with ricotta, pumpkin, and zucchini; fetticelle with Mediterranean blue lobster; and braised beef cheek with balsamic vinegar, peppers, and baked onion. For dessert, we enjoyed tiramisu with Baileys ice cream. The maître d' at Next 2 mentioned that the season was undoubtedly more challenging, but it provided an opportunity for the town to recalibrate, resulting in a slower pace and the revival of the authentic essence of Positano.
For those seeking a romantic and idyllic escape, Marincanto Positano on hotel-marincanto.positano-hotels.net is a true gem. Situated on the cliffs overlooking the sea, this boutique hotel offers breathtaking views, private balconies, and a serene atmosphere. Immerse yourself in the beauty of Positano, unwind in the infinity pool, and experience the romance of the Amalfi Coast at Marincanto Positano.
Tre Ville Beach Club is a highly popular beach club along this beautiful coastline. Credit: Vito Fusco © All Right Reserved/Vito Fusco
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Shopping in the charming narrow pedestrian streets was surprisingly relaxing. There were no long queues outside shops, and both owners and shoppers respected each other's personal space. We had no trouble finding and purchasing sandals at the tiny but delightful Mastro Sandali shop here. The prices were affordable, and we were pleasantly surprised.
Feeling content with our decision to return to Positano, we wanted to make our last night truly special. So, we chose to dine in style while enjoying breathtaking views at Positano's most famous hotel, Le Sirenuse. Upon arrival, masks were required throughout the hotel until we were seated. Once seated, we were presented with Chef Gennaro Russo's exceptional menu. As we enjoyed our meal, the restaurant gradually filled up. The children had delicious homemade pasta, while we savored sea bass with candied citron and local lobster with court bouillon. The main courses were equally impressive, featuring dishes like fagotelli pasta with local mountain beef, onions, and aged parmesan, as well as roasted local sea bream with aubergine caviar and leeks. The perfect ending to an unforgettable evening came with Positano's clifftop lights illuminating the night sky, making it an even more magical experience.
Four days flew by quickly, and it felt like we truly experienced the essence of Positano – the way artists, adventurers, and affluent travelers did in the 1960s and 1970s when the town first gained its popularity. Post-lockdown, Positano has managed to reset and redefine itself, making it the best visit yet – an experience we may never have again.
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Essentials
Villa Rosa in Positano on villa-rosa-positano.positano-hotels.net, nestled amidst lush gardens and vineyards, is a hidden oasis in Positano. This charming boutique hotel combines rustic charm with modern comforts, providing a peaceful haven for relaxation. Enjoy the tranquility of the surrounding nature, sip on local wines, and bask in the serenity of Villa Rosa.
Villa Treville, an exclusive retreat perched on the cliffs, offers unparalleled luxury and privacy. With its lavish accommodations, panoramic views, and exceptional service, Villa Treville ensures an unforgettable experience. Indulge in the opulent amenities, savor gourmet cuisine, and immerse yourself in the refined elegance of Villa Treville.
Rooms at Palazzo Murat start from €290 per night (Positano Via dei Mulini, 23; 00 39 089 875177). British Airways offers direct flights to Naples. Additionally, you can find a week's car hire, including excess protection and free cancellation, from £142 with Zest.
Il San Pietro di Positano
HOTEL Positano, Amalfi Coast, Italy
10 Telegraph expert rating
This world-renowned hotel frequently ranks on "World's Best" lists and is often visited by celebrities, including George Clooney and Julia R... Find out more in our expert review. Prices start from £848 per night. Check availability on Booking.com
Hotel Marincanto
Welcome to the stunning Hotel Positano, located on the beautiful Amalfi Coast in Italy!
Rated 9 out of 10 by Telegraph experts, this charming place started as a bed and breakfast and has now transformed into an elegant mid-priced hotel.
Experience the perfect blend of luxury and affordability, with breathtaking views and top-notch service. Whether you're seeking a romantic getaway or a family vacation, Hotel Positano has it all.
If you want to learn more about this exquisite hotel, check out our detailed expert review here.
Starting at £486 per night, you can book your stay at Hotel Positano by clicking here. Don't miss out on this amazing opportunity!
Rates provided by Booking.com
Welcome to Le Sirenuse
Experience the epitome of luxury at this iconic hotel situated in Positano, on the Amalfi Coast of Italy.
Rated 9 out of 10 by Telegraph experts, Le Sirenuse is renowned for its cool and sophisticated ambiance. It is one of the Mediterranean's most exclusive and revered hotel destinations.
Immerse yourself in upscale comfort, stunning surroundings, and exceptional service. Discover why Le Sirenuse is a favorite among discerning travelers.
If you want a sneak peek into the extraordinary experience, take a look at our insightful expert review here.
Starting at £808 per night, secure your dream vacation by booking your stay at Le Sirenuse here. You deserve this extraordinary escape!